Los Angeles Black Book: West Side Edition
I’m finally ready to serve the tea on travel. I have quite a large archive to share, but I figured I would start in LA, my home for the last 6 years. Not a minor undertaking given the vastness of the area and the diversity of wonderful things to do, see, and experience in this exciting city (suburb? sprawling collection of micro-communities? call it what you want). Hence my decision to split the LA Black Book in two parts—West and East Side.
Los Angeles is much more than meets the eye. Your typical boomer may see this city as a wasteland full of fake people, valley girls, TikTok and Hollywood. Quite the contrary (though we have that, too). LA has a layered cultural landscape beyond just the entertainment world. There is so much history here spanning health, architecture, the environment, politics and beyond. This I came to discover when I packed my bags and moved here from the East Coast in 2016. I am a transplant, yes, and in good company! So many iconic figures, authors, creators and visionaries have come before me and made their mark on this city.
If it’s your first time visiting, welcome. LA has something to offer everyone. The weather is amazing with the exception of December-Marchish that could bring some chilly mornings in the 50s and the occasional rain shower. But for the most part, it is 70s and sunny every day. What I find so cool is that LA has the city, beach, mountains, and desert all rolled into one. I’ll explain the layout a bit, some stereotypes, then get to the juice stuff: the reccs.
ON LAYOUT
The city’s sprawling layout creates a large collection of smaller communities, many more suburb-esque and walkable than a traditional city. There is no real city center. If I had to pick one, it would be West Hollywood because it is a popular, buzzy, and densely populated area with the most office buildings, businesses, shopping and nightlife. Downtown Los Angeles is generally to be avoided (traffic, high rises, extreme poverty, very out of the way) unless you have to go to USC, a Dodger’s game, the Staples Center (unfortunately now called Crypto.com Arena), The Broad/MOCA, or you have a weeknight reservation at many of the best restaurants in the city located there (Bestia, Bavel, Momofuku). But honestly as much as I adore these restaurants, I’ve only gone to each a handful of times because of the long haul from where I live in Venice (over an hour in an Uber on a Friday night in time for a 7pm reservation). If you have to go, check Waze and make sure you optimize for traffic. If your trip is short, it will be much more relaxing to avoid this area, unless of course you are staying nearby.
As previously mentioned, I’ve divided LA into the “West Side” and the “East Side”. Don’t get confused—I consider West Hollywood to be “east side” for our purposes. If you’re planning a trip, I recommend at the very least sticking to one side per day to avoid traffic and excessive time in the car. These are still massive areas, so I suggest narrowing it even more than that. Have a day in Venice and Santa Monica, then if you want to go down to South Bay or up to Malibu do that on a separate day. A single meal in Malibu is fine if it’s dinner and you have time to get ready and head that way after a day in Venice or Santa Monica.
A dense, enormous map that you certainly don’t need to know:
Narrowing it a bit, this is the general area I plan to reference in this post and in the East Side Edition to come.
Anything above Hollywood Hills is The Valley—suburbs, white people, and a little irrelevant for a first-timer. Anything below Marina del Rey is the airport, and then you keep going down until you hit South Bay—not technically LA—a.k.a. Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach, Laguna, etc. all the way down to San Diego. If you have time, it’s awesome down there and very beautiful, but very residential (wealthy young families, celebrities, and The Strand which is a cleaner, more civilized version of the Venice Boardwalk).
I adore this meme comparing LA neighborhoods to NYC. High level, pretty accurate.
West Side STEREOTYPES would say:
Santa Monica = The Pier, Tourists, mediocre apartment buildings, disappointing shopping, movie theaters. Where people in their 20s who first move to LA get an apartment because they don’t know anything else. The best part about Santa Monica is the close proximity to Brentwood and Pacific Palisades (land of Gwyneth Paltrow and other chic celebs; incredible real estate). Oh, and Malibu is slightly more accessible.
Venice = Tech Bros, Young Families (willing to pay millions for a small “bungalow”), rich kids in their 20s. Venice is the counterpart to Silver Lake/Echo Park/Los Feliz in that they are the two most popular places for young people to live depending on if they are more bro-y/surfer/East Coast or more hipster.
And now, what you’ve all been waiting for… the reccs! Places with a star * are my all-time favorites.
WEST SIDE
a.k.a. Venice, Santa Monica, Pacific Palisades, Brentwood, Malibu, Marina del Rey, Mar Vista, Culver City, and South Bay (Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach).
Venice is my favorite area of the west side and the most walkable.
STAY
The west side is admittedly sparse in terms of accommodations.
The Santa Monica Proper, Santa Monica (above). This hotel, designed by Kelly Wearstler, is by far the best west side option. The only issue is it’s not walking distance from much, but neither are any hotels in WeHo. The Proper has a beautiful roof lounge and pool, and the lobby is outstanding.
The Surfrider, Malibu. A modern twist on a classic surfside motel, this boutique 20-room oasis is airy and amazing. It is bare bones luxury, and the rooftop bar overlooking the Pacific is reserved for guests only.
The Viceroy, Santa Monica. A more budget and kid friendly option that is slightly closer to Venice than the Proper, the Viceroy was recently updated with a modern pool/cabana area and is walkable to the beach with all the usual amenities. This property is underrated in my opinion. It 100% gets the job done.
Shutters on the Beach, Santa Monica. I begrudgingly add this to the list. It is nice, but very overpriced and a bit dated. People love it because it’s on the beach, especially a wealthy older crowd. Rich parents stay here when in town. It is sort of stuffy, very comfortable and has an East Coast vibe. But honestly nobody is getting too hyped about staying at Shutters.
EAT
*Gjelina, Venice. Californian. The OG best restaurant in LA that established Californian cuisine. Still in my top 5. Amazing vegetables, pizza, pasta and small plates of all kinds. Get a table in the back patio. Must-order: Japanese sweet potatoes, snap peas, shishitos, fries, orecchiette, sweet corn agnolotti, spicy chorizo pizza, mushroom toast, roast chicken, like anything.
*Gjusta, Venice (pictured above). American. By the same team as Gjelina but a casual, order-at-the-counter gig that’s awesome for breakfast or lunch. Their dinner is a hidden gem, but keep in mind they’re having liquor license issued and currently aren’t serving (and lost their BYO license). Kale salad and falafel plate (both pictured), roast chicken, fries. Everything is outstanding. Very LA place, don’t miss.
*American Beauty, Venice. American. My new favorite. Awesome outdoor casual patio space with fire pits for those just in for drinks. American food with lots of fresh vegetables, meat and amazing cocktails. Don’t be thrown off that they call them self a “steakhouse”, that’s not the vibe and I’ve never gotten steak there. Must-order: labne and bread with honey, snap peas, Brussels, beets, artichoke, (pictured above), any veg, fries, half chicken, American Beauty martini, peanut butter chocolate dessert and cheesecake (both gluten free).
*Dudley Market, Venice. Seafood/Natural Wine. Basically opened by a group of guys who fish daily for what will be on the menu—usually a variation of fresh crudo (pictured), raw fish, and other seafood. No reservations, expect a wait and some chaos, but this place is worth it. You can wait outside with a bottle of wine. Outdoor and indoor seating. Don’t bring parents inside or if you want a quiet atmosphere, it gets loud with a DJ spinning vinyl on most nights.
*Erewhon, Venice. Grocery/Lunch/To-Go. The famous organic grocer and mecca of Instagram influencers and celeb-spotting. Find $20 strawberries, Sea Gel Moss, the Hailey Bieber smoothie, and much much more. Incredible hot bar (get the teriyaki chicken or salmon combo plate, buffalo cauliflower, kale white bean avocado salad). Once I tried to add the most expensive custom smoothie possible to my Postmates cart, and it came out to $190. Come for the raw nut milks and juices, herbs and tonics and tinctures and dusts you’ve never heard of before, and wheatgrass shots that take 30 minutes to come out (suspect they must be sprouting and foraging for it in the back). I love Erewhon deeply, it is my safe space, and sometimes I go just to blissfully wander the isles and sometimes (usually) spend $100 more than I intended. If nothing else, the people watching is elite. Order the Custom Burrito in GF coconut tortilla for pickup. Both salsas.
Felix, Venice. Italian. If I wanted to go full-carb, I would go here or Ospi. Evan Funke’s original HUGE hit. Hardest place of all my LA reccs to get a reservation, besides Nobu. Small really well decorated space, cocktail program is incredible, and a temperature-controlled glass room where you can watch chefs roll out beautiful pasta shapes. A bit more upscale than your usual Venice spot, special occasion worthy. Do not leave without ordering: Sfincione (pictured, famous sicilian foccacia that is literally a salty, savory donut), rucola salad, squash blossoms, trofie pasta, and as many pizzas and pastas as you can reasonably order. Their pizza dough is chewy and fluffy and my favorite in LA (pictured). None of this crispy, crackle, chip-that-breaks crust. My picks are Margherita and Diavolo, and for pasta the Rigatoni Alla’Amatriciana, Orecchiette, cacio e pepe. I never leave room for meat here, but the ribeye is bar none.
Zinque, Venice. Bar/French. I used to hate the old Zinque in Venice, but they revamped and changed locations and now I love it. There is a cute wine shop in front with other home goods, and in back is a HUGE indoor-outdoor space where you can order food and drinks any time of day. Awesome place to grab a bite and work during the day, or grab a cocktail at night. Food is nothing to write home about but totally good.
Chulita, Venice. Mexican. You wouldn’t think Mexican would be hard to come by in Southern California, but for some reason sit-down, modern Mex is lacking on the west side. This place is underrated, small, and delicious. Great drinks, fun vibe. Must-orders: margaritas, homemade cassava flour tortillas, guacamole, the Chulita Bowl, tacos, honestly everything. Great for lunch also.
Manchego, Venice. Spanish. I used to think nobody knew about this place but me, but then I realized they’re booked for reservations most nights. Really delicious spanish tapas and wine bar on Main Street. The southern end of Santa Monica, so it’s basically in Venice. Order the patatas, jamon wrapped dates, brussels sprouts, gambas, catalan chicken (insane), lamb chops, pork belly…
Tasting Kitchen, Venice. Modern Italian. They keep changing it up here for dinner but where I think it shines is brunch. A bit expensive but delicious cocktail program and simple, fresh food. Great pastas, seafood, meat. Get the night shift cocktail.
Night + Market Sahm, Venice. Thai/Natural Wine. Fun, funky, and kitschy atmosphere with special Thai food that has a serious kick. Great natty wine list. Two more locations in LA. If you’re sensitive to spice, either don’t come here or ask for everything as mild as possible (it will still be spicy). My go-to dishes: larb gai, papaya salad, crispy rice salad (not for the faint hearted—this can NOT be made any less than flaming hot. it may ruin your meal if you are weak), panang or sweet potato curry, coconut rice, pad thai, and the delicious garlic green beans.
Great White, Venice. Australian/Natural Wine. Delicous with tons of options and a light, airy California atmosphere near the beach. Avoid brunch on the weekends as they don’t take reservations and there is a wait. Great for dinner or weekday breakfast/lunch. Fresh food with tons of options to substitute. My favorite salad in the city is their Market Chop, add Salmon, add Halloumi. It’s huge. The added salmon is one of the best pieces of grilled fish around, and I will never turn down halloumi. Other musts: ceviche with taro chips, sweet potato fries, pizza, chicken, salmon curry, and the best burger I’ve had in LA.
Scopa Italian Roots, Venice. Italian. Classic, delicious. Great food and cocktails. The ricotta crostini is one of the best dishes I’ve ever had. I also really like the brussels sprout salad, chicken parm, all pastas. Kinda dark atmosphere, definitely a more upscale dinner vibe.
Ospi, Venice. Italian. Everyone’s favorite new Italian place in a really cool space that is more modern and fun. Outstanding cocktail program and service. Seriously if I ate more Italian food I would go here constantly. I went for a birthday dinner once in this floating room above the dining room and it was one of the most special dining experiences of my life. Must-orders: kale salad (iconic), cauliflower, spicy rigatoni (omfg), all saka-style (dipping crusts in sauce), butter chicken parm (ask for extra spicy sauce to dip this in. AMAZING BITE).
La Cabana, Venice. Dark, huge booths, open until 3am Mexican with legit tortillas, tableside guac, and actually solid spicy margarita pitchers. Very dangerous. Fun for birthdays and pretty much anything.
*Cobi’s, Santa Monica. Southeast Asian/Natural Wine. Amazing wine and elevated southeast asian food in an amazing, cozy and kitschy space with an overgrown garden, indoor-outdoor, and a bar with dozens of roses hanging from the ceiling. Trust me. Everything is great.
Bluey’s Kitchen, Santa Monica. Previously called Bondi Harvest, still owned by the same people. Great lesser-known Australian cafe in a weird area but so good. I love Whirley’s Bowl, always add halloumi.
Pizzana, Brentwood. Italian. Incredible pizza for a “chain”. I go for the slow-fermented, buckwheat gluten-free pizza that is outstanding. The best GF I’ve ever had, you can’t tell the difference. The Fungi and the Diavola are standouts. This place made me like white pizza.
Hatchet Hall, Culver City. Meat/American. I LOVE IT HERE. It’s so underrated because the location is kinda random. The bar is super cool, vintage furniture and great ambiance, and they’ve expended out into the patio very well. Very good cocktails. Order the honey brown butter dates, corn bread, parker house rolls, any veg/salad (always rotating, always delicious), ribeye, like anything.
Loqui, Culver City. Mexican/Lunch/To-Go. SO GOOD. Get the quesadilla on corn or flour with chicken, and get a few.
Fishing with Dynamite, Manhattan Beach. Seafood. Amazing fresh food in a beautiful tiny restaurant. The seafood tower is a hit.
Nobu Malibu, Malibu. Seafood. You know the drill… except this Nobu might be the most worth it. Chances of seeing a celebrity/Kardashian are in your favor, and if you don’t, the people watching is completely insane. This place breaks the bank, but the views are unprecedented (right on the water). Reservations are impossible. Go for lunch, ideally on a weekday. They will take your name and tell you it could be 2 hours, but it never is. Get a drink and sit outside. Must-orders are shishito peppers, spicy tuna crispy rice (I prefer over rock shrimp), yellowtail jalapeno sashimi, new style salmon sashimi, meyer lemon albacore sashimi, miso cod (my personal favorite), baked crab hand roll (another highlight), ALL the rolls, mini lobster tacos, the Lychee Martini.
Malibu Seafood, Malibu. Seafood (lol). My favorite place. Casual, order-at-the-counter, right on the side of the PCH next to the beach. BYO. Also a small fresh fish market. Hit it after the beach or a hike. Expect lines, but it moves fast. Get the 2 or 3-piece Fish and Fries (very light and tender - must order), Fried Squid (aka calamari), Fried Scallops, Shrimp, etc. If you must be healthy, any grilled fish with sides is fresh and yummy. Shrimp cocktail, good cole slaw. One time I ordered the East Coast whole steamed lobster and didn’t realize until later it was $75. Lol. It was amazing.
Taverna Tony, Malibu. Greek. A classic establishment, local spot, great people watching, family owned and authentic. The warm loaf of bread and taramasalata (salty, fluffy dip) they bring out when you sit down is LIFE-CHANGING. I would go just for that. A great lunch spot if you want to do some shopping at Malibu Country Mart, a chic walkable area with cool boutiques and brands.
Foodshop, Venice.
DRINK
I love Chulita for a casual margarita with a friend or two if you’re around Rose Avenue.
American Beauty has excellent drinks and vibes, even if you’re not eating. Outside.
Tasting Kitchen has a tiny bar but an amazing cocktail program.
Gran Blanco, Venice. Gets crowded and fun at night.
Dudley Market, Venice. Very special natural wine.
Hatchet Hall, Mar Vista. Overlooked because of the location, but outstanding cocktails. The “old man bar” decor is not to miss.
Winston House, Venice. One of the only clubby/dancing places in Venice. Live music/DJ/band set weekly. Can be hard to get in so plan to either get a table or arrive early (like 9 or 10pm) or after midnight.
Old Lighting, Venice. Speakeasy special occasion spot in the back of Scopa Italian Roots. Incredible special and niche cocktails with whiskey from around the world.
Hinano’s, Venice. A super classic old dive bar with smash burgers, pool, and bartenders who’ve been there for 50 years. Everyone goes after the beach. An institution!
Big Dean’s Oceanfront Cafe, Santa Monica. Dive bar to go and watch sports and eat fried food, outside. More touristy but fun when the weather is good.
Nobu Malibu. You can order drinks without a reservation and stand outside, if waiting for a table or not.
Tower 12, Hermosa Beach. Really fun, Bungalow vibes, if Bungalow wasn’t so cringe now. They’re both kinda out I guess (or very young) but Tower 12 is more of a chill sports bar.
Bar & Garden, Culver City. Exceptional wine shop and liquor store.
Hi-Lo Liquor, Culver City. Great boutique liquor store with quality snacks.
Vin on Rose, Venice. Natural wine shop on Rose Ave with a very reliable rotating selection.
COFFEE & TEA
Philz, Santa Monica & Culver City. Get the mint mojito iced coffee, don’t ask why. I modify by swapping stevia for sugar. Crack.
Alfred, Venice. Great matcha latte and regular latte, both with with almond milk. Everyone likes their vanilla latte. They have tons of crazy drinks. Very trendy.
Groundwork, various locations. Great nitro cold brew. Venice location has picnic tables outside for working.
Cha Cha Matcha, Venice. Known for matcha, also delicious matcha latte with almond milk, matcha lemonade, matcha chai. Probably highest quality matcha.
Moon Juice, Venice. The most LA place you can go, with signature “dusts” to add to any drink. Their iced coffee with house-made almond or coconut milk (add a dust) is delicious.
Cafe Bolivar, Santa Monica. On the Venice border. This multicultural coffee, fresh juice and arepas cafe is a hidden secret. They have tables to get work done (no AC, so avoid hot days), great cold brew, and a variety of fresh pressed juices but my favorite is the grapefruit ginger.
DO
Walk Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice. Palm tree-lined street with the best shopping and restaurants—the place to be. Check out the Venice canals too, if you haven’t been.
Hike: Solstice Canyon, Los Leones, Escondido Falls, Point Dume, Eagle Rock in Topanga State Park, Inspiration Point in Will Rogers State Park, Culver City Steps. I use the AllTrails app.
Bike the South Bay Path starting in Marina Del Rey and going all the way down to Hermosa Beach. The Strand is beautiful and the path is great. End at Shellback Tavern for a beer or Tower12 for a great burger.
The Venice Walking Paths. A very hidden collection of streets in between homes with beautiful landscaping and full views into gorgeous, eccentric Venice bungalows. I’m always fascinated by these streets as they are unmarked, always empty, and a wonderful respite from the crowded, buzzy Abbott Kinney and Rose Ave. Here is a good place to start—walk all the way until you get to Lincoln, take a right and walk a block or so until you see the next entrance and walk all the way to the opposite end. Repeat.
Charter The Duchess. A gorgeous yacht with awesome staff. If you get 12 people, it’s pretty cheap per person for an afternoon cruise (like $100 range).
The beach! I recommend going down more towards Marina del Rey. Windward Street or Hurricane are good streets to head out from. Much quieter and nicer. There’s almost no parking so we recommend Ubering, getting dropped off, biking, or parking farther out then walking to grabbing a Bird scooter.
Museums: The Getty Villa
SHOP
The Digg Rig. Jason is a vintage genius. He owns a bus full of amazing vintage jeans, tees, jackets, etc. that he parks in different areas of Venice. He knows your denim size just by looking at you. Appointment only—DM his instagram and you have the whole bus to yourself. He’s awesome, super friendly and cares about his clients.
General Store, Venice.
Tortoise General Store, Mar Vista.
LCD, Venice.
Parachute, Venice.
Nick Fouquet, Venice (pictured above). Very expensive, very beautiful bespoke hats. The owner is very hot and very Venice.
Ahlem, Venice. Chic sunglasses you should not purchase if you’re apt to losing them. $$$
Brentwood Country Mart, Brentwood.
Malibu Country Mart, Malibu. Outdoor high-end shopping center with great boutiques and dining. I love Fred Segal, Ron Herman, Oliver People’s, and Sunroom. Hit Sunlife Organics for the best juices, smoothies and bowls. Taverna Tony is incredible greek food and Malibu people watching. Go to Broad Street Oyster for seafood. The Kardashians love Lucky’s Steakhouse (if going, do dinner).
Palisades Village, Pacific Palisades. Excellent shopping center (by far best on the West Side) with an Erewhon and other great dining options.
Platform, Culver City. Outdoor shopping area with a Reformation, Sweetgreen, Roberta’s Pizza, and other great shops.
Design: Merchant Modern, Obsolete, Stahl + Band.
Vintage/Antiques: The Mart Collective, Big Daddies.
That’s all for now! Stay tuned for the East Side Edition, coming soon.
